Clay, pomade, or volumizing powder: Which styling product should you choose?
What is clay and why does it work so well?
Clay, also called styling clay or hair clay, is the driest product of the three. The name is meant literally: there is real clay in it, usually kaolin or bentonite. Have a look at the ingredient list on your jar.
Those clay particles are the reason clay does what it does. They absorb oil and moisture, which makes your hair rougher so the strands hold on to each other instead of sliding past one another. The result is grip and a matte, natural finish with no shiny layer. Exactly why clay has been the most popular product for messy, textured looks for years now.
We stock seven clays, from the Redken Texturize Matte Clay in 75 ml to the Kevin Murphy Rough.Rider, which comes in a 30 gram jar as well as a 100 gram one. Useful if you want to test whether the product suits your hair first.
What is pomade and when do you choose it?
Pomade works the other way around. Where clay makes your hair drier and rougher, pomade makes it smoother and shinier. It is the product behind the classic slick back and the sharp side part.
There is one difference you really need to know before buying pomade, and that is the base of the product.
- Water based pomade: dries slightly in the hair, holds its shape better and rinses out with ordinary shampoo.
- Oil based pomade: does not dry and stays flexible all day, which is handy if you like to restyle. The downside is that it washes out with much more difficulty and can start to feel heavy after a few days.
Not sure which to pick? Water based is the safer option for most people, certainly if you style every day.
What does volume powder do?
Volume powder really belongs in a different category than clay and pomade. It is not a product for shaping, it is a product for height. You sprinkle it at the roots on dry hair and massage it in with your fingertips.
Because the powder adds virtually no weight, it is the only one of the three that works well on fine and limp hair. A clay or a pomade flattens hair like that. Volume powder does the opposite and stands the roots up.
Clay, pomade, wax and volume powder compared
We have added wax, because for most people that is the most familiar product and therefore the easiest reference point.
| Product | Hold | Finish | Texture | Best suited to |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Clay | Strong | Matte | Dry and firm | Short to medium hair, textured looks |
| Pomade | Medium to strong | Shiny | Creamy to greasy | Smooth, classic styles |
| Wax | Medium | Matte to lightly shiny | Firm, needs warming up | Short hair, definition and structure |
| Volume powder | Light | Matte | Loose powder | Fine hair, lift at the roots |
Sitting exactly between wax and clay in terms of texture? Then a paste is often the best middle ground: a little easier to spread than clay, with almost the same matte finish.
Which product suits your hair?
In practice the choice comes down to three things: your hair type, your hair length and the look you are after.
- Fine or thin hair: start with volume powder. Clay and pomade both carry too much weight and flatten fine hair, no matter how little you use.
- Thick or unruly hair: here you need a clay or a firm pomade. Volume powder on its own is not strong enough to keep thick hair in place.
- Short hair, matte look: clay, without a doubt. On short styles this is the most forgiving product there is.
- Medium to long hair, smooth look: pomade. On long hair clay is hard to spread evenly and tends to clump.
- Hair that gets greasy fast: clay absorbs sebum, which can buy you an extra day between washes. Pair it with a shampoo for oily hair so your scalp still gets properly clean.
- Curls: stay away from clay, it dries curls out and breaks up the curl pattern. A water based pomade or a cream works better.
How to apply clay or pomade properly
The most common mistake is using too much product at once. That leaves your hair heavy and sticky, and there is no fixing it afterwards. Work in this order:
- Start with dry or towel dried hair. On soaking wet hair clay spreads badly and clumps.
- Take an amount the size of a pea, no more.
- Warm the product between your palms until it turns soft and almost translucent. This is the step most people skip, while it is the difference between spreading evenly and ending up with clumps.
- Work it from the roots towards the ends, so the grip sits where you need it.
- Shape it with your fingers and only add more if you really have to.
Can you combine these products?
Yes, and that is exactly how hairdressers do it in the salon. Do not think of them as rivals but as layers. Volume powder goes in first, at the roots, to create height. Clay or pomade follows through the lengths for shape and definition. Want it to last all day? Finish with hairspray.
Do use less of each layer than you would if you used the product on its own. Three products at full dose still add up to too much.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between clay and pomade?
Clay gives a matte finish and strong grip because it contains clay that absorbs oil and moisture. Pomade gives shine and a smoother, more flexible hold. Choose clay for a natural textured look and pomade for a polished, smooth style.
Is hair clay the same as styling clay?
Yes, hair clay and styling clay are two names for the same product. Both terms are used interchangeably by brands and retailers. There is no difference in composition or in how the product works.
What is a clay pomade?
A clay pomade is a hybrid: the matte finish and firm grip of a clay combined with the creaminess of a pomade. It spreads more easily than a pure clay, which makes it a good first choice if you have never worked with clay before.
How do you get clay or pomade out of your hair?
Wash your hair with a clarifying shampoo and massage it well into the roots, where most of the product sits. Clay and water based pomade come out in a single wash. Oil based pomade usually needs two washes, or a deep cleansing shampoo.
